= good, but... ;
= not satisfactory;
= not sure yet;
Options on BC20 Order Sheet
I only ordered cushions for the quarter berth and the starboard side couch with the latter shortened so that it did not project into the cubby hole where I sighted the electronics. No V berth cushions since that would be my "wet store" area.
Tan sails with UV strips on jib and mizzen
I like them whatever Matt says! However it is harder to see if the jib luff is breaking! UV strips are vital since Seatern is kept rigged on the river.
Wouldn't be without it, even if just for stopping rain going into the cabin. Unless it's raining I have it lowered for sailing but sometimes raised for motoring when its cold.
Probably more decorative than functional!
Seems to work well but I don't think it was applied to include the boot-top region which was the original plan. This should be remedied when Seatern visits SB during August.
Really useful, e.g. when moored using the chain on a "visitors mooring" buoy. However SB fixed it on the port side of the stem where a mooring line or chain would foul the furling line for the jib. I swapped it to the starboard side.
Vital for boarding from water or from mud! However a more vertical version would make life easier. The one I've got is OK because on Seatern there is the boom gallows to grab onto when boarding.
Boom bag and lazy jacks
For Seatern, a vital part of the mast lowering system. I always make sure the main is secured in the bag before lowering the mast for going under Northam Bridge.
Through Bulwark Stainless Fairleads
When moored to my jetty Seatern's bow is moored to a pontoon and I feel that taking the warp through the bulwark and onto the Sampson post is more secure than taking it through the fairlead on the top of the bulwark.
Asymmetric spinnaker and bowsprit
Since I sail single-handed I thought this might prove a waste of money, however I now use the sail a lot. I'm wondering about fitting a top down furler.
Cockpit floor and Seats
I did not choose the Permateak option from Swallow Boats but instead got teak seat panels and a teak grating made up by Howells of Poole. The real teak was over twice the price but I very much like what I've got. The teak grating gives a relativly level surface with the rear ballast tank hatch, and the teak surfaces are much more pleasant than the standard non-slip finish of the cockpit sole and seats.
Rather than have to maintain varnished wood I decided to have teak which I'm leaving un-oiled. I'll treat it occasionally with Boracol to prevent any growth on it. The non-slip nature of the untreated teak is a real boon in winter.